Complex Accords

There are a number of other accords that in some systems for defining fragrance have the status of ‘family’. In the main they are complex ‘fantasy’ blends.

Fougere – one of the most popular themes for fragrances for men. From the French word for fern this is a fantasy accord that first appeared in the 19th Century. The odour actually bears no resemblance to ferns but is a blend of bergamot, geranium, lavender and oakmoss.

Chypre – legend has it that this accord was inspired by the Mediterranean island of Cypress. A classic Chypre fragrance will have a base note that relies on ingredients that give a mossy character. The top note will include bergamot with a floral bouquet heart. Other key ingredients include labdanum, patchouli and oakmoss.

Leather – there have been attempts to recover an essential oil from uncured, untanned skins however the ‘leather note’ has become synonymous with the smell of leather that has undergone the curing and tanning process. It is this note that perfumers seek to reproduce from the palette of ingredients available to them.

Aldehydic – this name is taken from a group of chemicals that first found favour in perfume creation in the 1920’s. They are intense and most would say unpleasant on their own but when used in combination with elegant floral harmonies they add a sparkle and sophistication that cannot be achieved in any other way. Although some of the most popular and enduring perfumes owe their very existence to this group of ingredients they have fallen out of favour in recent years.

Lastly, several very important ingredients with similar odours are used as base notes in virtually all fragrances so are not easy to segment. These include the musk-like and ambergris-like odour materials